Episode 7 – Aguas Calientes y Machu Pichu

There are only two ways to get to Machu Pichu. You can hike the 4 day Inka Trail (or a newer shorter 2 day trek) or you take the train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes, the town that sits at its base, from which buses leave constantly for the 20 minute ride up the winding road to Machu Pichu.

We took the Peru Rail scenic train with panoramic windows and it was just delightful. In addition to spectacular views and nice snacks, they provide entertainment and a fashion show en route.

Aguas Calientes gets a bad rap likely cause it has no real history having been created as a spot for the train station and cause it’s expensive since everything has to arrive by rail. And because it’s now exploding at its seems with all the tourists. It is confusing as hell for a small town but I found it to be a lot of fun. The town sits on both banks of the river and has lovely foot bridges that span the waterway.

You can actually take the train up early in the morning, tour Machu Pichu and return the same day but we stayed 2 nights and I’m really glad we did. Our first day we had a guided tour of Machu Pichu and it is amazing, awe inspiring, incredible, it’s no wonder that Machu Pichu is included on the list of the 7 wonders of the world.

On the second day we hiked up Wayna Pichu which is the adjacent promontory prominent in all pictures of Machu Pichu like my new profile picture.

The access to Wayna Pichu is restricted to 400 persons per day. 100 each hour starting at 7:00 am with the last admittance at 10:00. The tickets sell out months in advance so you have to plan early but it’s an amazing hike with spectacular views and shouldn’t be missed.

The history of the modern rediscovery of Machu Pichu is that a Yale archaeologist named Hiram Bingham (the inspiration for the fictional character Indiana Jones) with the backing of the National Geographic Society came to Peru in 1911 in search of the jungle refuge where the Inkas fled after their victory over the Spaniards at Ollantaytambo. Bingham believed incorrectly that he had found the Lost City of the Inkas when he stumbled upon Machu Pichu.

The construction of Machu Pichu is accredited to the Inkan Pachacuti whose statue is set atop a conical shaped museum in Cusco. Incredibly Machu Pichu was built, occupied and then mysteriously abandoned all within 100 years.

As an additional tip, although you can do it one day, don’t, because the weather can be variable. The day of our departure it was raining hard and there were lots of tourists who had only scheduled one day who won’t get to see much and whose trip is going to end in a big disappointment.

Hiking Wayna Pichu was really a great experience for us. It’s a rigorous hike but not dangerous despite what is reported in some guide books. We were pretty proud of ourselves and pretty soaked in sweat when we finished.

Will and I had a great time hiking Wayna Pichu and lots of time to talk and maybe understand each other. Will thinks he learned that I’m scared of heights which isn’t really true, I just don’t like heights much.

I’m glad I don’t have to grow up again. It was hard enough when I was a kid but so much more complex today. The two major issues for Will’s generation are gun violence and climate change. They feel passionately about both and I for one am optimistic that they will address the issues that my generation ignored in a productive and positive way.

I really feel for Will. It’s never been easy to be a teenage boy. On the outside you look mostly all grown up but on the inside you’re mostly still a boy who shouldn’t have to grow up without his mom. I wish Cary was here for William to guide and support him. I wish she were here to hug him every morning, read books and recite prayers with him at night.

I also wish she had been here to plan Emily and Devin’s wedding. How I wish we had been able to walk Emily down the aisle together. I wish she were here now to support and guide Emily as Emily meets the joys and frustrations of creating and caring for a home and a family, something Cary did so well.

And I wish she were here for Hannah to guide and support her as she faces the imperative to succeed in her career as a professional woman while balancing her family and personal life and her outside interests and hobbies another thing Cary mastered like few others.

But all three are really doing quite well. Ironically the reason they’ve done so well without their Mom is because they had such a fine mom.

For the most part, I think Cary is satisfied that we’ve made “good choices” and that all three kids are on a good path. But she’s not happy that I let William stop taking piano lessons. I’m sure of that. But I’m equally certain that she will be very happy when he picks them up again on his own initiative (hint hint Joven Guillermo).

So as Joven Guillermo and me (I know it’s supposed to be I) come to the end of our Peruvian adventure and as I finish this final blog post I recognize and appreciate how fortunate I have been.

Like life itself, this blog wouldn’t mean much without family and friends to share it and I am blessed with both. So to everyone who accompanied Joven Guillermo and me on our Peruvian adventure, thank you.

And to Carebear, G-d bless you always, you were my one and only.

So its a wrap, our Peruvian adventure and alperuconjovenguillermo.blog are done. We’re headed home. We had a great time.