I took my first step out of the hotel’s front door at 7, had a quick breakfast at a cafe in the old town center and was crossing the Leres river bridge at sunrise.
But Pontevedra is a town of more than 70,000 people so you have to contend with several kilometers on city streets through the outskirts of town before you get to the country but once you reach the country it’s really wonderful walking, natural shaded pathways through pine and eucalyptus forest along river banks and railroad tracks.
And then you suddenly find yourself in the midst of the wine growing region of Rias Baixas walking through acres of ancient hand tended vineyards growing the region’s signature Albariño grapes. A wine which has been a favorite of mine for years.
The cafes and way stations on the Camino were crowded with Peregrinos walking solo or in pairs and in informal or organized groups. I met several multigenerational families from the south of Spain walking together grandparents, children and grandchildren and lots of parents with children of all ages from babies to teenagers.
There was a group of maybe 50 Italian high school kids with teachers who were having the best time walking together singing their favorite songs out loud in unison and laughing and joking all the way.
I made the acquaintance of a nice priest, Father Mario from Monterey, Mexico who has been bringing groups of individuals and couples to the Camino for 15 years. This year he was guiding a group of 17 women from the Rio Grande Valley.
He stopped me when he noticed that we were wearing the same brand of tennis shoes. And naturally we became fast friends when I told him two of my favorite priest rabbi jokes.
The town of Rias Baixas is about the size of a postage stamp but it has some pretty cool stuff. There’s an old Roman bridge, lots of huge herons on the Umia river and the parochial church is dedicated to Saint Thomas Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury, who made his pilgrimage to Santiago in 1167, 3 years before he was assassinated.
And it was a welcome surprise for me when I learned my hotel the Balnearius Acuna still had the old thermal baths in operation in the subterranean reaches of the hotel, reminiscent of the Majestic in Hot Springs, Arkansas.
The thermal waters were very soothing after my lunch of grilled prawns, melon and Albariño wine (of course). Don’t even ask me why they required me to wear a shower cap, I can’t explain it.
There are actually two separate hot springs under the city the Acuña and the Davila. It’s always been a spa town. The Romans had spas here going on 2000 years ago.
I then wandered over to the most known restaurant in town, a mill restaurant on the river and when they had no seating for one, a young German Peregrina asked me if I wanted to join her and two German friends that she had met that day. She spoke really good English and was lively and fun to chat with and the two German guys were as well. And then I caught a live performance of local folk music in the center of town.
All in all another fabulous day on the Camino Portuguese and tomorrow it’s Stage 23 Caldas de Reis to Padron.
Buenas Noches y Buen Camino!
