Well it’s 9:30 am Sunday morning and I’m enjoying the beautiful breakfast buffet at the Parador so which option did I choose?
I thought carefully, reviewed Brierly and others thoughts on the subject and consulted with my fellow peregrinos in the plaza in Bierzo over wine and tapas last evening and ultimately made my decision after a final discussion with Luis my new friend at the front desk at the Parador.
Brierly describes the stage as “strenuous” and says all routes are “demanding.” I spoke with no one who is planning on going all the way to Ocebreiro from Bierzo in one day. Even Matthew who has probably already left to tackle the Dragonte route is stopping for the night in Herrerías and making the 600 meter climb to Ocebreiro the next morning. I don’t have the option to stop because I’m booked for the night at the hotel in Ocebreiro. I’m to meet the horseback group in Ocebreiro tonight for dinner at 8:00 and the ride starts in the morning.
The least taxing route is on the main highway and its said to be “noisy and dangerous” and adjusted for the climb is 34 kms.
The scenic route which I would choose if I was doing the whole stage in one day adds extra kms and is very remote, adjusted for the climb it’s 36 kms!
All 3 meet up in Herrerias for the climb to Ocebreiro which is said to be one of the most beautiful although challenging parts of the entire Camino Frances.
So I struck a middle ground and with Luis guidance and assistance, I’ve arranged a cab ride to Vega del Valcarce at 11:00. I’ll walk from there to Ocebreiro a distance of about 15 kms adjusted for the climb.
Best of all worlds, I think, it certainly will be easier on my feet, I got to sleep in and enjoy the buffet, have time to tour Bierzo and I’ll be in Herrerias at the best time of the day to start the climb to Ocebreiro which is an isolated mountain path with incredible views.
It is said to be so gorgeous that it should not be missed (and I won’t).
Honestly I have a mix of emotions about the horseback ride. I’ll be with a group of people. I think 4 or 5 who I know nothing about and right now don’t have much interest in meeting. I’m already missing the solitude of walking alone.
Cary and I went on our first riding holiday in 1991. She arranged an Inn to Inn ride for us in Portugal for our 5th Anniversary. We rode 6 days from country inn to country inn out of the Escola de Equitacao de Alcainca a small town north of Lisbon. She was always doing nice things like that for us. We had the best time ever. Here’s a picture of Cary on her horse Atleta. I’m on the white horse behind the camera.
She was just as young and beautiful the day we learned she had that disgusting cancer.
The first day it rained for hours but we rode through it. Here’s a picture of the two of us at the end of that day.
It was a group of about 10 people. Us, a German couple our age, a couple of single women from NY, a British solicitor, a French guy and an older guy from NY named Leonard. He was widowed and I’m sure younger than I am now. I don’t know how his wife died. I don’t think I ever asked him. I should have taken time to get to know him. I never thought that one day I’d be a widow or am I a widower?
Booking the horse ride seemed like a good idea at the time but now I’m thinking that I’m going to miss walking the rest of the way. Even if I don’t know all their names there at least a couple of dozen people who I’ve seen repeatedly, often daily, and who will be walking into Santiago at about the same time and I won’t be one of them.
So that’s the morning update.
Buen Camino