Episode 16 – Samos to Portomarín and Portomarín to Palas de Rei

Another couple of great days on horseback. Picaro is really a wonderful horse, he and I have become fast friends. All day long it’s another incredible panorama, vista, town or village, each one lovelier and more beautiful than the last. I’ve been having so much fun. For some reason, groups of pictures are easier for me to upload on FB so I posted the highlights there.

I’ve also gotten to know our leader Marcelino, his cousin Rafa (second in command) and my riding companions a little better.

Marcelino reminds me very much of my departed Vermont friend Paul Kendal. Paul introduced us to horseback riding in Vermont. Like Paul, Marcelino is a natural and talented horseman but first and foremost a wonderful host. His priority is to see that his guests have their every need or desire met, that they are well cared for and have a great time. As was Paul Kendal, he’s not only a wonderful horseman and guide but an educator who with great pride introduces you to the geography, history, culture, food, wine, fauna and flora of the region and country that he loves. Rafa is the same with a nice sense of humor to boot.

Ricardo and Maria (Heather) couldn’t be better people to meet on a riding holiday.

Ricardo is a very nice man. After practicing neurosurgery for over 30 years he is happy to have left it behind. He lives in an 18th century home in Florence near his oldest daughter, her husband and his grandson who he adores.

Maria (Heather) is not quite divorced from her husband of over 25 years, devoted to her 3 daughters, loves her horses and travel.

They have been a pleasure to be with these last few days. Easy conversationalists, they are both fun to ride with, to share a meal and a bottle of wine.

Tomorrow it’s 30 kms riding to Arzua which is about 40 kms from Santiago.

Friday is the final day with a 35 km ride to the outskirts of Santiago and an optional 5 km walk to the Cathedral in Santiago.

The riding really has been extraordinary but each day as we get closer to Santiago I am more nostalgic to return to where I was before the riding part began.

I don’t want to appear rude or unhappy or hurt anyone’s feelings but I need more time alone with my thoughts and memories. So I’m going to ride tomorrow with the group and then bid farewell to Marcelino, Rafa, Ricardo, Maria and Picaro. I’m going to pack up my riding boots and chaps and take out my hiking boots and Carys cherry red trekking poles for the last 40 kms into Santiago.

I’ve never walked that far in a single day but if I don’t get there on Friday, I’ll be there on Saturday morning in time to present my credential to the Pilgrim office ahead of the noon Pilgrim service at the Cathedral.

I’m going to try to focus on the 30 years we had together and the children and legacy she left me rather than the additional years that were stolen from us by that grotesque desease but the loss I feel is no less, indeed probably more profound now, than the day I lost her.

The old snows melt from every mountain-side,   

And last year’s leaves are smoke in every lane;   

But last year’s bitter loving must remain

Heaped on my heart, and my old thoughts abide.

 

I have a room at the Parador San Marcos. The entrance and front door of which is the same as it was in 1992 when I took that picture of Cary standing there with that tan leather bag over her shoulder.

I’m going to be looking for her. I’m going to want to see her standing there. Of course, I know she won’t be there. She was stricken with a hideous form of cancer.

May 10, 2016, just 17 months ago, a life time ago. I was with her in our bedroom at our home in San Antonio. I was holding her hand. I felt it go from warm and soft when she took her final breath to ice cold the moment the life force left her body.

I know she’s not going to be standing in that doorway. She’s resting on the side of a hill in Vermont beneath the shade of an ancient maple tree watching over our farm below but I’m going to be looking for her there nonetheless. I can’t help myself from wanting to see her standing there with her beautiful smile that tan leather bag over her shoulder.

God bless you always Carebear

Buen Camino

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