So I had a really really wonderful, almost perfectly executed, first day on the Camino Portugués.
The only mistake I made is that I started out too late. I had decided to have a bite of breakfast before I left the hotel not realizing that it wasn’t served until 8 o’clock so it was after 9 before I actually took my first steps on the Camino. I’m not gonna make the same mistake tomorrow.
Todays destination was the Portuguese border town of Valenca do Minho which is a modern town of 25,000 or so on the border with Spain with a fortified medieval old town with intact walls and city gates.
The Camino was just beautiful, mostly all quiet natural pathways through eucalyptus and pine forest, vineyards and small farms along ancient irrigation canals. There was some up and down but not too much.
I stopped at the first place I came upon and got the first stamp in my Credencial. The first town I came to was Sao Benito. Typical with a cafe or and a restaurant located on the roundabout with a few Pilgrim‘s scattered here and there, chatting in different languages, taking a break before they soldier on. I had a coke at Cafe Castro.
The day was great, hot but not unbearable. I stoped for lunch about 2:00 at an upscale Camino stop about 5 kilometers outside of Valenca. I had a pear, walnut and goat cheese salad with balsamic vinaigrette and a glass of Albarino wine. It was one of the best salads I ever tasted.
30 years ago if asked what I would have wanted for my last meal I certainly would’ve said a porterhouse steak and the bigger the better. Now I think if asked I might say a walnut, pear and goat cheese salad, a fabulous mix of the freshest most delicious salad greens with a perfectly blended balsamic vinaigrette dressing and glass of Albarino wine.
Well on second thought if it’s really my laat meal I’d ask for the salad and some rotisserie chicken.
The only really difficult part of the day was the couple of kilometers on the asphalt roads through the modern city of Valenca on the way to the Fortaleza. But even that wouldn’t have been so bad if the temperature hadn’t soared above 95° but it was totally worth it because walking into the the fortified of old town was just so fun. It’s completely surrounded by its fully intact medevial walls and the only way in or out, is through tunnels in the walls. There are a number of them. Some for cars and some for people and some that don’t seem to serve at all. Sometimes when you’re walking through one of the tunnels, you have to plaster yourself against the wall when a car comes by.
The old town was so vibrant, just chock-full of shops, restaurants, tourists and pilgrims.
I made my way to Pousada, showered changed out of my sweaty clothes, hung them out to dry and put on a pair of shorts that I had brought along. Actually I always bring along a pair of shorts but I almost never wear them. Wearing a pair of shorts un public, like going on a retreat, is something I’ve never really been very comfortable doing, at least up until now.
I wandered the town, had the most delicious grilled fish since Mallorca, watched beautiful sunset and a lovely moon ride but the streets of the Fortaleza are now deserted and I’m tired so I’m headed for bed.
Tomorrow I’m starting out early, destination, Redondela, Spain.
Boa Noite e Bom Caminho!
