Figeac is a delightful town of close to 10,000 people along the banks of the River Cele. It was founded in the year 830 and has a wonderful historic center with well maintained medieval architecture.
It also has the Musée Champolion named in honor of the world’s first Egyptologist, Francois Champolion, who was born in Figeac in 1790. He is said to have been fluent in multiple languages by the age of 14, including Greek, Latin, Hebrew and Arabic, translated the Rosetta Stone and founded the Egyptology department of the Louvre museum.
Theres even a cool reproduction of the Rosetta Stone in a plaza in the historic center.
The town was occupied by the Nazis in WWII and 540 of its citizens (a significant portion of the population) were sent to concentration camps, many never to return.
I had a great time in Figeac. My hotel was like a castle and although it had 30 rooms, I was like it’s only occupant.
I had my first confit de canette, from female ducks it’s favored by many who say it’s more tender and flavorful than canard, from male ducks. Delicious!
And I stumbled upon a very cool art gallery where the artists set up their easels in the middle of the store, create their art and then hang it on the walls for display and sale.
I had a wonderful time chatting with Danie who manages the gallery. I understood maybe 10% of the hilarious things she said but I laughed along with her all along nonetheless. And I couldn’t resist buying “Glou Glou Bar” the painting she said was her favorite.
Next morning, I set out on Stage 11 from Figeac to Cajarc. It’s a long stage, over 30 kms (18 miles) starting with a serious assent from the Cele River. It was a terribly humid morning. I was drenched in sweat early and so happy when it leveled off after the first 3 kilometers.
For the first time there were good numbers of other people on the trail, not hundreds like in Spain but good numbers. Many were lined up at a lovely pilgrim stop with great views in Faycelles where I enjoyed a coke.
Once you leave Livinhac, you’re out of the Lot River Valley and in Quercy, the ancient home of a Celtic people who inhabited the area before the Romans. There are stone walls everywhere and small circular stone huts and even ancient dolmens.
The bulk of this stage is on rocky terrain so it’s tough on your feet but it ends gloriously when you emerge high up on limestone cliffs with stunning views of the lovely village of Cajarc below.
I was enjoying the panorama when I made the acquaintance of a Frenchman from Bordeaux named Christophe. I had the nicest time exchanging stories with him of our lives and travels.
And we seemed to have a lot in common until he mentioned that he averages 40 kilometers a day and finished the Camino Frances in 20 days!
Of course I can walk 40 kilometers, that’s 24 miles, in one day, in fact my record was the 54 kilometers, 32 miles, that I walked 5 years ago in celebration of my birthday during Covid. But my regular pace is more like 25 or up to 30 kilometers a day, not 40, oh well, maybe we can still be friends!
À plus tard mes amis!
Interesting experiences!